5208.32.50.20 - Poplin or broadcloth (314)

This HTS classification, 5208.32.50.20, specifically covers dyed woven fabrics of cotton, which are characterized by a plain weave and weigh more than 100 g/m², but not more than 200 g/m². The "poplin or broadcloth" designation within this code refers to tightly woven fabrics with a fine, smooth surface, often with a subtle lengthwise ribbing, commonly used in apparel like shirts and blouses. These fabrics must contain 85% or more cotton by weight to fall under Chapter 52 and meet the specified weight and weave criteria of heading 5208.

Distinguishing this category from its sibling, 5208.32.50.90, is crucial. While both fall under dyed, plain-weave cotton fabrics weighing over 100 g/m², the sibling category specifically includes lighter, more open-weave fabrics like cheesecloth, lawns, voiles, and batistes. In contrast, 5208.32.50.20 is for denser, more finished fabrics such as poplin and broadcloth, which have a higher thread count and a more substantial feel due to their tight construction.

As this is a leaf node in the HTS, there are no further subcategories. Classification at this level is definitive for poplin or broadcloth meeting all preceding criteria: woven cotton, weighing not more than 200 g/m², dyed, in a plain weave weighing more than 100 g/m², and of number 69 or higher number (referring to yarn count). Therefore, the key determinants for classifying goods under this code are the material composition (predominantly cotton), the dyeing process, the specific weave structure (plain weave), the fabric weight, and the characteristic weave density and finish of poplin or broadcloth.