5208.23.00.00 - 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill (317)

This HTS classification, 5208.23.00.00, specifically covers woven fabrics of cotton that have undergone a bleaching process. These fabrics must contain 85 percent or more cotton by weight and should not exceed 200 grams per square meter in weight. The defining characteristic of this category is the weave structure: specifically, a 3-thread or 4-thread twill, which includes the common "cross twill" pattern. This particular weave creates a distinct diagonal rib effect on the fabric's surface.

To distinguish this category from its siblings, it's important to focus on the weave. While 5208.21 and 5208.22 also fall under bleached woven cotton fabrics weighing not more than 200 g/m², they are characterized by a plain weave. 5208.21 applies to plain weave fabrics weighing 100 g/m² or less, whereas 5208.22 covers plain weave fabrics exceeding 100 g/m². The sibling category 5208.29 encompasses other types of bleached woven cotton fabrics within the specified weight limits that do not fit the plain or twill weave descriptions.

As 5208.23.00.00 is a leaf node, it has no further subcategories. Classification within this specific code is determined by the combination of being bleached, composed primarily of cotton, within the weight limitation, and exhibiting the distinct 3-thread or 4-thread twill weave. Examples of fabrics that would fall here include certain types of denim, gabardine, or other twill weaves used in apparel, home furnishings, or industrial applications where these precise specifications are met.