5208.22.40.20 - Poplin or broadcloth (314)

This HTS classification, specifically 5208.22.40.20, pertains to woven fabrics of cotton that are bleached. These fabrics must contain at least 85 percent cotton by weight and not exceed 200 grams per square meter. Crucially, they are characterized by a plain weave construction and weigh more than 100 grams per square meter. The "of number 42 or lower number" designation indicates that the warp and weft yarns in these fabrics are of a coarser count, generally meaning fewer threads per unit of measurement, contributing to a more substantial weave structure.

Within this specific level, the classification distinguishes itself from sibling categories by the type of weave and potential end-use implied by the weave. While 5208.22.40.40 covers "sheeting," which typically implies a somewhat tighter and smoother weave suitable for bedding, and 5208.22.40.90 designates "cheesecloth," known for its very open, gauze-like weave, this category is specifically for "poplin or broadcloth." Poplin and broadcloth are known for their fine, even weave and slight horizontal ribbing, offering a more formal drape and finish than sheeting and a much denser structure than cheesecloth.

As a leaf node, 5208.22.40.20 represents a specific and detailed classification. Poplin is a crisp, closely woven fabric with a subtle horizontal rib, often used for shirting and dresses. Broadcloth, similar in its density and smoothness, can be used for a range of apparel and home furnishings. The distinction here rests on the characteristic weave pattern and yarn count, ensuring accurate identification of these specific cotton poplin and broadcloth fabrics once they meet the preceding criteria of weight, cotton content, and being bleached.