5208.13.00.00 - 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill (317)

This HTS category, 5208.13.00.00, specifically covers unbleached woven fabrics of cotton that are characterized by a 3-thread or 4-thread twill weave, including cross twill constructions. To fall within this classification, the fabric must contain 85 percent or more by weight of cotton and weigh no more than 200 grams per square meter. The defining feature is the twill weave pattern, which creates a distinct diagonal ribbed appearance, differentiating it from plain weave fabrics found in sibling categories.

Distinguishing 5208.13.00.00 from its siblings is crucial for accurate classification. Categories 5208.11 and 5208.12 are designated for plain weave fabrics, differing from the twill construction of 5208.13. Category 5208.19 encompasses "other fabrics" not otherwise specified within the unbleached cotton category, meaning any twill weave that doesn't fit the 3-thread or 4-thread description (though this is unlikely given the specificity) would fall there. The weight criterion is shared across these siblings, but the weave structure is the primary differentiator for 5208.13.

As a leaf node, this category does not have further subdivisions. Therefore, classification under 5208.13.00.00 is definitive once the criteria of material composition (at least 85% cotton), weight (not exceeding 200 g/m²), and weave structure (3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill) are met. Importers and exporters should carefully examine fabric samples to confirm the presence and characteristics of the twill weave.